Reviewed · ALTIPLANO LAGOON TOURS
Full day Tour Charquini and Laguna Esmeralda
The best part of this day is the sudden change from dusty mountain country to Laguna Esmeralda, a brilliant green lake beneath the Charquini glacier. Along the way, you stop at a historic cemetery, red waters, and viewpoints of Huayna Potosí, so the day feels like more than a single hike.
I like the private transport and the eco trekking poles, which are useful on the rocky climb. I also like the guides’ habit of stopping for slower walkers. The main concern is altitude: the route rises to roughly 5,024 meters, and a short hike can feel very hard if you arrived in La Paz only the night before.
Key points to know before booking
- A high-altitude hike to an emerald lake: The walk is not especially long, but thin air makes it demanding.
- Several worthwhile stops: Milluni Cemetery, red Laguna Colorada, and views of Charquini, Chacaltaya, and Huayna Potosí add variety.
- Guides are a major strength: Cristian, Patti, Marco, Cassandra, and Giovana are among the guides praised for patience, encouragement, and clear explanations.
- A long road journey comes with the territory: Expect roughly two hours to the first viewpoint, dusty roads, and a potentially cramped vehicle.
- Basic food is included: You receive snacks and hot drinks according to the tour details, though the hot drinks have not always been provided.
- Bring serious mountain clothing: Warm layers, waterproof clothing, gloves, a hat, and proper walking shoes matter here.
Why Laguna Esmeralda is worth the hard climb

Laguna Esmeralda is the prize at the end of the route. The lake has a strong emerald color, with the Charquini glacier and nearby snowfields behind it. In June and July, part of the lake may be frozen, adding another seasonal detail to the view.
The walking distance is manageable for many people. Several accounts put the climb at about one hour to one and a half hours each way, with roughly 400 meters of ascent and around four kilometers round trip. Those numbers sound modest at ordinary altitude. Here, they can feel like a serious mountain outing.
You will likely walk slowly, pause often, and take time to breathe. That is not poor fitness. At more than 4,600 meters, every uphill step costs more effort. The route can also bring snow, sun, wind, mud, and changing temperatures on the same morning.
The guides generally help by letting people go at different speeds. Cristian, Marco, Patti, Cassandra, and Giovana have each been singled out for encouragement and attention to slower walkers. Still, one account describes feeling rushed on the way down, so tell your guide early if you need a slower pace.
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The two-hour ride to Mirador Llojeta

You meet at Feel Bolivia Travel Agency on Sagarnaga Street at 8:00 a.m. From La Paz, the first ride takes about two hours. That is a sizable part of an 8 to 9-hour day, but it puts the later stops in context and gets you away from the city quickly.
At Mirador Llojeta, you can see Nevado Charquini, the mountain you will approach, along with Chacaltaya and Huayna Potosí. This is a useful first stop because it lets you understand the shape of the route before you reach the trailhead.
The viewpoint also gives you a chance to begin adjusting to the altitude and cold. Do not treat it as a quick photo stop only. Use the time to drink water, eat a little, and notice how your breathing feels.
The transport is practical rather than luxurious. The tour uses private round-trip transport, but the van seats have been described as small and uncomfortable, especially on rough roads. Air conditioning may not be available, and dust can be part of the ride. If your back is sensitive, ask about the vehicle before booking.
Milluni Cemetery and the story of Bolivia

After about another 30 minutes, the route reaches Milluni Cemetery. This is not a polished attraction with elaborate displays. It is a stark mountain cemetery tied to an important moment in Bolivia’s development and labor history.
The stop adds meaning to the day. You are not simply driving through empty high country toward a scenic lake. The area has a human story, and the guide provides historical explanations in English and Spanish, depending on the guide assigned to your group.
Plan on about 30 minutes here. The cemetery can feel exposed, cold, and austere. That is part of its character. Respect the setting, listen to the guide, and avoid treating it as a quick backdrop for photographs.
Red water and Huayna Potosí at Milluni
The next stop is Milluni, sometimes described as Laguna Colorada or the Milluni Reserve. The red water creates a sharp contrast with the pale, dry mountain surroundings and the snow-covered Huayna Potosí in the distance.
You have about 30 minutes here. It is a small stop, but it gives you a different kind of scenery from Laguna Esmeralda. The red lagoon is broad and exposed, while the final lake is reached on foot and framed by snow and glacier.
The road between stops can be dusty and rough. That matters because the journey is part of the day, not just a transfer between attractions. If you want a soft-seat sightseeing vehicle and smooth roads, this is not the right outing. If you are happy to accept basic transport for access to remote mountain views, the tradeoff is easier to justify.
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Nevado Charquini and the start of the hike

After roughly another 30-minute drive, you reach the Nevado Charquini area. The tour allows about two hours for this portion, which includes the ascent toward Laguna Esmeralda.
The route is commonly described as moderate in distance but hard at altitude. You may encounter snow from the start, especially in poor weather. A clear day can bring strong sun, while clouds and snowfall can arrive quickly. Warm clothing and waterproof gear are not optional extras here.
Eco trekking poles are included. I would use them. They help with balance on uneven ground and reduce some strain during the climb and descent. Proper shoes also matter. The route is a mountain trail, not a paved walk.
Take the guide’s pace seriously. The strongest part of this operation is the human support. Guides have been praised for waiting, offering breaks, checking on people, and helping anyone who feels unwell. Some guides have also carried medicine or offered coca to chew when altitude symptoms appeared, although you should not rely on that as medical care.
If you develop severe symptoms, tell the guide immediately. One person became seriously ill after the tour and needed hospital treatment. That is an important warning, not a reason to panic. It means you should arrive acclimatized, recognize your limits, and understand that a high-altitude trip carries real physical risk.
One hour beside Laguna Esmeralda
The tour gives you about an hour and a half at Laguna Esmeralda, though your actual time depends on your pace and the group. If the ascent takes longer, your time beside the lake may shrink.
At the top, the setting is simple and powerful. You have emerald water, snow, glacier views, and open mountain space. The guide may suggest photo ideas and take pictures for you. The lake is also a good place to eat the provided snack, since the cold and climb can leave you short on energy.
The food is basic rather than a full meal. Expect items such as a cheese empanada, banana, cereal bar, bread and cheese, or chocolate, depending on the day. Lunch is not formally included, so bring extra food if you need more than a snack.
Hot drinks are listed as included, but they have not always appeared in practice. Bring your own water and do not count on a hot drink as your only way to warm up. Bottled water is not included.
The lake rewards patience. The best moment may not be the first one at the shore. Let your breathing settle, add a layer, and look back toward the glacier before starting down. The return may feel easier physically, but uneven ground and tired legs still demand care.
Altitude, weather, and the real difficulty
The route reaches roughly 4,600 to 5,040 meters. That is the central fact of this tour. At this height, a one-hour walk can feel more difficult than a much longer hike at sea level.
I would not book this for your first morning in La Paz. Several people who arrived the night before felt sick during or after the climb. Give yourself a few days to adjust if your schedule allows, and use earlier days in Bolivia to see how your body reacts.
This trip is better suited to someone with moderate fitness who has already spent time at altitude. You do not need to be an expert mountaineer, but you should be comfortable walking uphill, stopping often, and dealing with cold conditions.
Pack:
- Warm jacket and extra layers
- Waterproof jacket or rain shell
- Gloves and a warm hat
- Sturdy walking shoes
- Water
- Extra snacks
- Sunscreen and sunglasses
- Coca leaves or another personal altitude aid if you normally use one
Conditions can change quickly. One day may bring snow from the trailhead, while another gives you sun and clear views. The practical choice is to dress for cold and wet weather, even if the morning starts bright.
What the $55 price really covers
At $55 per person, the price is fair for a private day trip that includes round-trip transport, a bilingual guide, trekking poles, and snacks. The $2 Charquini entrance fee is extra, and lunch and bottled water are not included.
The value depends on what you want from the day. You are paying for access to a remote mountain area without arranging transport, finding the trail, or managing the route yourself. The guide also handles the stops and watches the group during a demanding walk.
You are not paying for a luxury vehicle, a large meal, or a polished visitor center. The roads are rough, the van may feel cramped, and the food is simple. For me, the strongest value is the combination of transport and local guidance. Getting to these places independently would require more planning and a reliable vehicle.
The tour is private, so only your group participates. That can make the pace easier to manage than a large scheduled group, though the exact experience still depends on the guide, weather, and fitness levels in your party.
The return to La Paz
After time at the lake, you return to the vehicle and drive back toward La Paz. The stated total duration is 8 to 9 hours, but actual return times can vary. Some groups have returned around 2 p.m., while others arrived closer to 4 p.m.
That variation comes from hiking speed, time at the lake, road conditions, and how the guide manages the group. Do not schedule a tight afternoon commitment. You return to the agency office at Sagarnaga Street 391, on the corner of Illampu.
The drive back can be tiring after the climb. This is where the van comfort matters most. Bring a layer to wear in the vehicle, keep water within reach, and use a small cushion if you know long rough rides bother your back.
Who should book this mountain day?
I would recommend it to you if you want a strong mountain view without committing to a technical climb. The route offers several different stops, and Laguna Esmeralda gives you a clear reward for the effort.
It suits people who are already acclimatized, reasonably fit, and comfortable with basic conditions. It also works well for visitors who value a guide’s support and want transport arranged from La Paz.
I would hesitate if you have just arrived at high altitude, dislike rough roads, need roomy transport, or want a relaxed sightseeing day. The distance may look short on paper, but the elevation changes the whole experience.
The 97 percent recommendation rate and 4.7 rating suggest that the day works very well for most people. The lower experiences point to the same issues you should take seriously: altitude sickness, uncomfortable transport, weather, and a possible feeling of being rushed on the descent.
Free cancellation is available up to 24 hours before the start time. Less than 24 hours before departure, changes and refunds are not accepted. A minimum number of participants is required, and if the operator cancels for that reason, you receive another option or a full refund.
Should you book the Charquini and Laguna Esmeralda tour?
Book it if your priority is big mountain scenery and a manageable but demanding hike. The emerald lake, red Milluni waters, cemetery, and views of Huayna Potosí make this more varied than a simple out-and-back walk.
Wait until you are acclimatized, pack for snow and rain, and bring your own water and extra food. At $55, it offers solid access and guidance, but you should accept the rough road, basic snacks, and small-van transport as part of the deal.
FAQ
How long does the Charquini and Laguna Esmeralda tour last?
The tour lasts approximately 8 to 9 hours.
What time does the tour start?
The tour starts at 8:00 a.m.
Where does the tour begin?
It begins at Feel Bolivia Travel Agency, Sagarnaga 391, in La Paz.
Where does the tour end?
It ends at the agency office on Sagarnaga Street 391, at the corner of Illampu.
Is transportation included?
Yes. Private round-trip transportation is included.
Is the Charquini entrance fee included?
No. The Charquini entrance fee is $2 per person.
Is food included?
Snacks are included, and hot drinks are listed as included. Lunch and bottled water are not included.
Are trekking poles provided?
Yes. Eco trekking poles are included.
Is the hike suitable for children?
The tour is not recommended for children under 10 years old.
Can I cancel for a refund?
Yes. You can cancel at least 24 hours before the start time for a full refund. Cancellations or changes made less than 24 hours before the start time are not refunded or accepted.
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